Walking into Todd English's brand-new Plaza Food Hall, I heard someone ask, "What are you in the mood for?" It wasn't a question with an easy answer. There was a sushi bar, a tapas bar, a brick oven for pizza, a cheese/charcuterie/bread/coffee/chocolate counter, a fresh seafood display a la Estiatorio Milos, an Asian dumpling bar, and a grill. Almost every seat was taken except a couple at the tapas bar, so that's where I plunked myself down. However, I was to find that every menu is available wherever one sits. (I wonder if this may change in the future, as there are plates of pesto maki flying all the way from the sushi bar to the folks ordering prime rib sliders at the other end of the room.)
I knew I wanted one of the blueberry-filled lemon meringue cupcakes I'd seen at the front, but I decided to pace myself, ordering... artichoke cacio e pepe, brandade fritters, charred octopus salad, grilled asparagus with preserved lemon zest, and lamb skewers from the tapas bar, a sweet Italian sausage pizza from the brick oven, and some crab salad rolls from the grill. (This was my only meal of the day, I swear.) For me, the standouts were: crab rolls... tons of sweet crabmeat tossed in mustardy aioli, spilling out of three toasted onion brioches; the sausage and aged provolone pizza with a marvelous, chewy crust that was not overcharred in the slightest; and the brandade fritters, which were lightly battered codfish cakes in a pool of romesco sauce and olive oil. (The one false note was the artichoke cacio e pepe, which was acrid and lacked pecorino - I think this simple dish of pasta, tossed only with black pepper and cheese, is perfect as is.) The cupcakes (chocolate grasshopper, strawberry cheesecake, and lemon meringue) were made by English's daughter; the homemade strawberry jam inside the strawberry cheesecake was a lovely surprise.
Now I'd like to go back to try the Kobe pastrami, the whole branzino, and the prime rib sliders!
(ETA: I just went back for lunch today, and I want to mention how accommodating the hosts were to my baby-in-stroller. When I'd requested outdoor seating at Sarabeth's, I was refused and told that I'd be creating a fire hazard. But when I got off the escalator and strolled into the Food Hall, a smiling lady led me to the seafood counter and let me park my City Mini right in the corner.)
The Plaza Food Hall: 1 West 59th St., Plaza Hotel, Concourse.
Showing posts with label Mediterranean. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mediterranean. Show all posts
Saturday, June 05, 2010
Tuesday, June 01, 2010
Ayza Wine & Chocolate Bar
Looking around us, my friend and I wondered why the clientele at Ayza was almost exclusively female. And why was everyone ordering chocolate-raspberry martinis? Finally the waitress provided an explanation; apparently, Tuesdays are "Girls' Nights Out," and if you make a reservation on OpenTable, you can celebrate your two X chromosomes with a chocolate-covered strawberry and a chocolate-raspberry martini. Who needs to see the second Sex & the City movie when one can live it in realtime? (Who, indeed. But that's a post for a movie blog!)
The menu at Ayza, which features much more than wine and Jacques Torres truffles, is tapas-focused - perfect for taking a bite in between people-watching. Small appetizers - like crispy baby shrimp wontons in a sweet chili sauce over a seaweed salad, a nicely presented Caprese salad with melt-in-your-mouth buffalo mozzarella, and a velvety asparagus soup spiced up with black peppercorns - share space with a selection of tartines, panini and a few main courses like radiatore pasta and chicken paillard. Not to mention a fine little cheese list, and of course, desserts like warm molten chocolate cake. All prices are quite reasonable except for the martinis, which are $15-$16 (other cocktails are $10-$16); another reason to go on a Tuesday to enjoy them for free.
I should mention that upon being seated, we were given complimentary cups of tropical sangria. Now, if only I'd mentioned "Girls' Night Out" on my OpenTable reservation...
Ayza Wine & Chocolate Bar: 11 West 31st St., (212) 714-2992.
The menu at Ayza, which features much more than wine and Jacques Torres truffles, is tapas-focused - perfect for taking a bite in between people-watching. Small appetizers - like crispy baby shrimp wontons in a sweet chili sauce over a seaweed salad, a nicely presented Caprese salad with melt-in-your-mouth buffalo mozzarella, and a velvety asparagus soup spiced up with black peppercorns - share space with a selection of tartines, panini and a few main courses like radiatore pasta and chicken paillard. Not to mention a fine little cheese list, and of course, desserts like warm molten chocolate cake. All prices are quite reasonable except for the martinis, which are $15-$16 (other cocktails are $10-$16); another reason to go on a Tuesday to enjoy them for free.
I should mention that upon being seated, we were given complimentary cups of tropical sangria. Now, if only I'd mentioned "Girls' Night Out" on my OpenTable reservation...
Ayza Wine & Chocolate Bar: 11 West 31st St., (212) 714-2992.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Nizza
The folks behind French Roast, Cafe D'Alsace, and Nice Matin have brought us another crowd-pleaser: Nizza. And on my recent visit, the crowd definitely seemed pleased. But as I watched them ooh-ing and aah-ing over their bountiful bowls of pasta and pizzas scattered with basil strips, I had the sneaking suspicion that I'd ordered the wrong thing.
I'd struggled mightily over my choices, too, because the menu couldn't have appealed to me more than if I'd written it myself. It had burrata, fresh pasta filled with greens and herbs, meatballs with polenta and hot peppers... you can see how it would be hard to decide. But my suspicions were confirmed when I was presented with my appetizer, a plate of panisses. The chickpea fries were underdone and gooey on the inside, although the accompanying paprika aioli had a nice kick.
Fast forward to dinner. The couple at the table next to me were happily trying each other's pasta al pesto and spaghettini with shrimp. I'd chosen the marinated swordfish in a "salsa gialla"; the small portion of fish was dry and charred. All was not lost, however; after wondering about the semolina pistachio pudding, I ended up with a dessert winner: the orange-chocolate crostata. It was a hot, flaky pie crust layered with candied orange slices and little bursts of bittersweet chocolate. Now this was something I could enjoy from start to finish!
I'm definitely going to give Nizza another chance; all those Campari-drinkers and pizza-eaters can't be wrong.
Nizza: 630 Ninth Ave., (212) 956-1800.
I'd struggled mightily over my choices, too, because the menu couldn't have appealed to me more than if I'd written it myself. It had burrata, fresh pasta filled with greens and herbs, meatballs with polenta and hot peppers... you can see how it would be hard to decide. But my suspicions were confirmed when I was presented with my appetizer, a plate of panisses. The chickpea fries were underdone and gooey on the inside, although the accompanying paprika aioli had a nice kick.
Fast forward to dinner. The couple at the table next to me were happily trying each other's pasta al pesto and spaghettini with shrimp. I'd chosen the marinated swordfish in a "salsa gialla"; the small portion of fish was dry and charred. All was not lost, however; after wondering about the semolina pistachio pudding, I ended up with a dessert winner: the orange-chocolate crostata. It was a hot, flaky pie crust layered with candied orange slices and little bursts of bittersweet chocolate. Now this was something I could enjoy from start to finish!
I'm definitely going to give Nizza another chance; all those Campari-drinkers and pizza-eaters can't be wrong.
Nizza: 630 Ninth Ave., (212) 956-1800.
Monday, August 25, 2008
An Astoria Wine Bar Crawl
The wine bar/small plate trend has spread to Astoria. Many options now await the oenophile who takes the N/W to the last stop (Ditmars Boulevard):
- (4/29/09 NOTE: I've just received word that the following wine bar has just discontinued its live music, and intends to close at some point to become a catering facility. Sad news.) At one of my personal favorites, Vino di Vino (29-21 Ditmars Blvd., 718-721-3010), you can try 18 varieties of Italian cheese, five cured meats, or a delicious brick oven pizza while you quaff from a truly encyclopedic wine menu that includes everything from South African sauvignon blanc to Portuguese cabernet port. For jazz lovers, the terrific Jed Levy Group entertains a couple nights a week. (Note: Vino di Vino serves no dessert or coffee, and it's closed on Sundays!)
- Alas, today was Sunday. My friend and I attempted to go to the above wine bar, but it wasn't open. So we ended up at an unnamed (yes, it truly has no name - 2009 NOTE: And now it is closed!) wine bar at 31-13 Ditmars Blvd. (212-777-0012). Unnamed used to just be a coffee shop, but underwent a drastic change a month ago. Now, you can order the most delicious white anchovies with garlic, or cannellini beans flecked with dill and parsley, or a plate of three cured meats and cheeses with onion jam and fruit, or some house-cured olives with preserved lemons. You can order the olives by themselves, or they also come with the excellent sandwiches on toasted Pain D'Avignon bread. We had the leek/Swiss chard with herbs and crumbled manouri cheese. There are lots of Mediterranean wines, and coffee is from Porto Rico Importing Co. And there's baklava, too!
- About a year ago, the cozy little Crescent & Vine set up shop at 25-03 Ditmars Blvd. (718-204-4774). It serves up a nice selection of charcuterie and cheese like Serrano ham, Stilton and Gruyere, as well a couple salads and a Nutella sandwich for dessert.
- If you like sangria, and you fancy some live singer-songwriter or classical music, you will definitely want to visit Waltz-Astoria (23-14 Ditmars Blvd. 718-95-music). There are live performances several nights a week, as well as cheesecakes from Junior's, both red and white wine sangrias, and wines from Chile, Spain, France, Argentina and Australia. What more could you want!
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Allegretti
On my way to Lunetta last night, I spied Allegretti, the brand-new brainchild of Le Cirque alumnus Alain Allegretti. The menu looked so enticing that I had to return today! Although it was only the restaurant's second night, everything went swimmingly. By 8 pm, there was barely an empty table in the house, and people kept stopping by to look inside.
The room was elegant, with hardwood floors, silver light fixtures, cream-colored walls and navy banquettes and chairs. Soothing instrumental music emanated from the speakers, but the restaurant soon became loud and lively with excited patrons. What were they excited about? Well, bigeye tuna tartare, Colorado lamb with spinach ricotta gnocchi, tagliolini with baby cuttlefish and almond pesto, duck breast with honey-lavender vinaigrette, and Perugina sausage with sweet peppers. See, I told you this was exciting!
After choosing a pesto roll (there were also plain and olive varieties), I munched on a complimentary goat cheese/sunchoke toast, and then decided to begin with the waiter's suggestion of heirloom tomato/burrata salad. Often, when eating a Caprese, I end up picking at the tasteless tomatoes while devouring the mozzarella in total. But Allegretti's indescribably delicious rendition showcased intensely juicy, variegated red and yellow tomatoes which equalled the rich burrata in flavor. Sharp-tasting scallions were scattered over the creamy cheese, which melted milkily into little pools of tomato or basil coulis, and the whole dish was seasoned with sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil. A salad to remember.
My main course consisted of four rafts of bright rouget fillets atop a bed of paper-thin zucchini coins, nutty pignoli and red peppers. Woodsy-tasting fried parsley adorned the fillets. The server brought by a thin sauce which tasted of the sea; it was shot through with saffron threads. He poured the sauce on the plate at the last minute, so the full-flavored fish maintained its crisp top layer while being moist on the bottom. (By the way, Allegretti will soon have a working brick oven, which will be used for another exciting fish dish.) I drank a glass of 2007 Convento Muri Gries Muller Thurgau white wine with dinner.
Dessert was a tough choice. Jasmine semifreddo? Licorice panna cotta? Lavender-honey creme brulee? I usually can't resist chocolate, so I chose the grappa chocolate fondant. The dome of dark chocolate mousse was covered by a thick layer of chocolate ganache and served with a scoop of ricotta ice cream, which was studded with almond slivers. Just when I thought I'd had enough, a plate of meringues and anise-scented butter cookies arrived at the table.
Hurry up; soon, you won't be able to get in!
Allegretti: 46 West 22nd St., (212) 206-0555.
The room was elegant, with hardwood floors, silver light fixtures, cream-colored walls and navy banquettes and chairs. Soothing instrumental music emanated from the speakers, but the restaurant soon became loud and lively with excited patrons. What were they excited about? Well, bigeye tuna tartare, Colorado lamb with spinach ricotta gnocchi, tagliolini with baby cuttlefish and almond pesto, duck breast with honey-lavender vinaigrette, and Perugina sausage with sweet peppers. See, I told you this was exciting!
After choosing a pesto roll (there were also plain and olive varieties), I munched on a complimentary goat cheese/sunchoke toast, and then decided to begin with the waiter's suggestion of heirloom tomato/burrata salad. Often, when eating a Caprese, I end up picking at the tasteless tomatoes while devouring the mozzarella in total. But Allegretti's indescribably delicious rendition showcased intensely juicy, variegated red and yellow tomatoes which equalled the rich burrata in flavor. Sharp-tasting scallions were scattered over the creamy cheese, which melted milkily into little pools of tomato or basil coulis, and the whole dish was seasoned with sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil. A salad to remember.
My main course consisted of four rafts of bright rouget fillets atop a bed of paper-thin zucchini coins, nutty pignoli and red peppers. Woodsy-tasting fried parsley adorned the fillets. The server brought by a thin sauce which tasted of the sea; it was shot through with saffron threads. He poured the sauce on the plate at the last minute, so the full-flavored fish maintained its crisp top layer while being moist on the bottom. (By the way, Allegretti will soon have a working brick oven, which will be used for another exciting fish dish.) I drank a glass of 2007 Convento Muri Gries Muller Thurgau white wine with dinner.
Dessert was a tough choice. Jasmine semifreddo? Licorice panna cotta? Lavender-honey creme brulee? I usually can't resist chocolate, so I chose the grappa chocolate fondant. The dome of dark chocolate mousse was covered by a thick layer of chocolate ganache and served with a scoop of ricotta ice cream, which was studded with almond slivers. Just when I thought I'd had enough, a plate of meringues and anise-scented butter cookies arrived at the table.
Hurry up; soon, you won't be able to get in!
Allegretti: 46 West 22nd St., (212) 206-0555.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Free Money!
No, a spammer didn't get a hold of my login and password (at least, not yet). The free money I'm referring to is a promotion that Picholine is running to celebrate its 15 years of operation (and counting)! Just click on this link and you'll be awarded a $50 gift certificate. I think I'll use mine for a French wine and cheese flight.
Picholine: 35 West 64th St., 212-724-8585.
Picholine: 35 West 64th St., 212-724-8585.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Lokal Mediterranean Bistro
The apartment directly above me is being renovated from top to bottom. Everything is being ripped out, drilled, and reinstalled. This means a daily onslaught of unbearable banging, shouting and thudding, which chases me out of my own apartment. I need a vacation! Unfortunately, much as I may long to visit the French Riviera (or any foreign destination) a trip out of the country is not an option for me right now.
Yesterday, the farthest I could travel was Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I was planning to take a stroll around McCarren Park when I caught sight of Lokal, a small Mediterranean restaurant on the park's perimeter. As I walked closer, the soft sounds of bossa nova wafted into my ears. Stained-glass French doors opened out onto the street, and I could see couples relaxing on striped blue banquettes. Sighing, I entered and sat down. The tables were decorated with shells and blue sand. I could almost imagine that I was on some kind of exotic vacation, although the cross breezes originated not from the sea but from the traffic on Nassau and Lorimer.
Lokal's menu offers plenty of classic spa selections, if you'd like to share in this fantasy of staying at some exotic resort. Caesar salads, grilled vegetable plates and penne with shrimp will entice the calorie-conscious diner (although "Lokal" is not a pun on '"lo-cal"). I ordered some unsweetened iced tea and a tuna burger. Although the beef burgers looked much plumper and more substantial, there was no filler in my choice - the burger was all chunks of seared tuna. The puffy brioche bun was nicely smeared with wasabi mayo, and a good portion of rosemary-sprinkled shoestrings was included. (For those who want something larger for lunch, there are meatball or beef casseroles.) At dinner, the menu expands to offer roasted free-range chicken and grilled NY steak.
I finished my last French fry to the strains of "How Insensitive." Although this song might be particularly apt for the people working on the apartment above me, at least I can temporarily escape their cacophony at Lokal.
Lokal Mediterranean Bistro: 905 Lorimer St., Brooklyn, (718) 384-6777.
Yesterday, the farthest I could travel was Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I was planning to take a stroll around McCarren Park when I caught sight of Lokal, a small Mediterranean restaurant on the park's perimeter. As I walked closer, the soft sounds of bossa nova wafted into my ears. Stained-glass French doors opened out onto the street, and I could see couples relaxing on striped blue banquettes. Sighing, I entered and sat down. The tables were decorated with shells and blue sand. I could almost imagine that I was on some kind of exotic vacation, although the cross breezes originated not from the sea but from the traffic on Nassau and Lorimer.
Lokal's menu offers plenty of classic spa selections, if you'd like to share in this fantasy of staying at some exotic resort. Caesar salads, grilled vegetable plates and penne with shrimp will entice the calorie-conscious diner (although "Lokal" is not a pun on '"lo-cal"). I ordered some unsweetened iced tea and a tuna burger. Although the beef burgers looked much plumper and more substantial, there was no filler in my choice - the burger was all chunks of seared tuna. The puffy brioche bun was nicely smeared with wasabi mayo, and a good portion of rosemary-sprinkled shoestrings was included. (For those who want something larger for lunch, there are meatball or beef casseroles.) At dinner, the menu expands to offer roasted free-range chicken and grilled NY steak.
I finished my last French fry to the strains of "How Insensitive." Although this song might be particularly apt for the people working on the apartment above me, at least I can temporarily escape their cacophony at Lokal.
Lokal Mediterranean Bistro: 905 Lorimer St., Brooklyn, (718) 384-6777.
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